Paris’ 18th arrondissement, situated on the Northern edge of the city, is mainly associated with French bohemian culture of past centuries centred around the Montmartre district. These days you’re unlikely to find anything here as exciting as the creativity and debauchery of its long-gone glory years, but if you stray away from the hoards of tourists marching their way upwards to the Sacré Coeur you will encounter a grittier side of Paris unrivalled by the grandeur of the polished central arrondissements.

The relative low cost of living here on the outskirts of the French capital has resulted in the district being largely populated by low-income immigrants who can make an income by selling to or hustling tourists – creating a vibrant and exciting environment in the more touristy areas, and a mix of friendly, multi-ethnic community by day and seedy underbelly by night when you find yourself off the beaten track. All the while early signs of gentrification are also beginning to seep into some areas. These factors make the 18th a fascinating subject that paints a picture of a lesser-seen aspect of The City of Lights…